FAQ

1. Which Fuji HVLP spray gun do I own?

Please click here to browse our Fuji HVLP spray gun identification chart, to help you determine which Fuji HVLP spray model you own.

2. Are HVLP turbine spray guns easy to use?

HVLP spray guns are easier to use than most, especially when compared to high-pressure spray guns. This is because the pressure is low, resulting in a softer spray pattern. Turbine spray guns also operate with much less pressure at the spray head than the compressor HVLP spray guns (conversion type). So you can expect even less overspray and bounce back with a turbine spray gun. Even for a novice, it takes very little practice to spray and achieve professional results with a turbine spray gun – thanks to the lower velocity. If you can use a paintbrush, you can spray with HVLP.

3. How does brushing compare to spraying?

In order to spray intelligently, it’s helpful to know just how similar spraying is to brushing – in fact, at Fuji, we often say that a spray gun is simply a paintbrush with no bristles. Some points of comparison include:

Brush: Paint is liquid in the can and applied with a brush to form a liquid layer on the subject (any object, such as a board).

Spray: Same, but the spray gun air cap atomizer (converts) liquid to small particles.

Brush: Paint is normally applied straight out of the can.

Spray: Paint must be thinned.

Brush: You instantly begin moving with the brush as you begin to make a pass across the board.

Spray:  You start to make the pass and pull the trigger just before the edge of the board.

Brush: After the brush passes off the edge you stop your pass.

Spray:  You let go of the trigger just after the edge of your piece to ensure full coverage.

Brush: You overlap passes with the brush to blend into and over a portion of the last pass.

Spray:  You overlap about 50% over the previous pass to make the transition invisible.

Brush: When you dip the brush in the paint can, you wipe off the brush to make sure you don’t apply too much paint at one time. Excess causes runs, and it also forces you to move too fast.

Spray:  You adjust the fluid control (at the rear of the gun) to reduce the material flow, allowing you to move at a reasonable speed.

Brush: The angle you hold the paintbrush should not change significantly while making a pass.

Spray: Generally speaking, the spray gun is held at 90 degrees to the project throughout the pass. However, as long as the angle of the gun is kept the same, the gun can be held at a slight angle if necessary.

1. Does Fuji Spray sell compressor spray guns?

Yes, the MPX-30 is a Mid Pressure (MP) compressor spray gun and the LX-20 HVLP compressor spray gun. Please Note: Click here for more details. Mid Pressure (MP) is also known as Reduced Pressure (RP).

2. Can MPX-30 / LX-20 be used with a smaller compressor?

There are a variety of compressors that can be used, however, the duration will vary based on the compressor size and CFM @ PSI it can produce. While the HP of a compressor is important, the most useful information will be CFM @ PSI. It will determine how quickly a compressor’s pump can fill an empty tank to a specific pressure requirement and what is the maximum air consumption it can support at a specific pressure level. (Keep in mind that this is not a linear equation and the best way to get accurate information is to call the manufacturer of the compressor.) The size of the compressor determines how long you can run your spray gun before the compressor will have to start replenishing the air supply. The smaller the gap between the recommended CFM @ PSI and what the compressor can produce, the longer you will be able to spray before the compressor runs out of air. We offer recommendations for compressor size at a maximum PSI level. Please note that not all users will operate at maximum. In addition, we have tested both the LX and MPX with smaller compressor sizes and they have atomized perfectly for extended periods of time.

3. Do I need a moisture/oil trap on the airline?

In order to prevent oil/water from contaminating and ruining your finish, it is recommended to have these traps installed between the compressor and the spray gun. It is also recommended to have a separate air hose for your spray guns, as using the same hose with some other air tools can cause it to be contaminated with oil.

1. Is it normal for a turbine case to get hot?

Yes. As the turbine motor is working it will produce heat that is transferred to the turbine case. Remember to allow your turbine 10-15 minutes of rest for every 45 minutes of continuous spraying. Normally you will require to refill your material cup after 20-30 minutes of continuous spraying. To make it more convenient – consider using a wireless remote (plug in a link). Allow the turbine to cool off after you are done spraying before attempting to remove the air hose.

2. Where should I place the Turbine?

Place your turbine on the floor 20ft away from the spray area. Ensure the area is clean and the turbine can draw in a large volume of cool air. The air hose should be placed on the floor; avoid bends and coils as this can adversely affect the airflow. If placing the turbine in the next room, it is highly recommended to use a wireless turbine remote switch #3072

1. How can I tell which air cap set I should use?

Please refer to our Quick Reference Sheet for guidance to help with your air cap set selection. We advise using your viscosity cup to measure the run time of your finish material. Needles, nozzles, and air caps belonging to each specific size should be kept together.

2. How far away should I hold the spray gun?

The Spray Pattern is fan-shaped, so for a larger-sized fan keep your spray gun at a distance of 6″-8” from the surface. Moving too close will increase bounce back while moving too far away can produce a dry spray. Bounce back occurs when the airflow from the spray gun carries the finish away from the surface you’re spraying. The main causes of this will be holding the spray gun too close to the surface while spraying or using too much airflow for turbine spray guns and too much pressure for compressor-driven spray guns. The closer your spray gun to the surface is and the greater the airflow/pressure, the more bounce back you will observe. Dry spray occurs when the material cures before it reaches the surface you’re spraying. The most common cause is holding your spray gun too far from the surface. For fast drying finishes, using too much air or too little finish for the airflow can result in a dry spray. Use the pattern control to adjust the width of the fan to the desired size. Don’t forget to readjust the fluid control to ensure optimal coverage. When using a small round fan pattern to spray smaller surfaces, move closer to the target.

3. Can I spray walls & ceilings with HVLP?

While HVLP Turbine Systems were designed for fine finishing, thousands of people have used the Fuji Systems to paint walls/ceiling and they are very happy with the results. For better results, choose a paint with lower viscosity and a higher tolerance for dilution. Before you begin, make sure to mask all adjacent surfaces. Thin your paint according to the air cap set you’re planning to use. See your quick reference sheet for guidelines. You may need to add slowing agents/dry time extenders such as Floetrol to promote better leveling. It’s best to use bottom feed spray guns such as T-70. It will hold more finish and the material cup can be readjusted to ensure proper material intake when spraying ceilings. The cup attached to your gun will require constant refills. When spraying large area’s it is recommended to use a 2Qt pressure pot.

4. Is thinning necessary or important with HVLP?

The viscosity of coatings is important. Although we supply a guide, there is often some experimentation involved in arriving at the best viscosity. If a product is thinned too much, there are runs. Too thick and ‘orange peel,’ or rough finish is the result. When thinning, it is essential to use a reducer that is compatible with the material you are using. It is wise to experiment on a practice piece to ensure that the finish is perfect. Request information from the coatings manufacturer – don’t forget to mention you are spraying with HVLP equipment. Water-borne lacquers can be applied successfully with HVLP. Some of these products require no thinning whatsoever (but some do). Many of these newer coatings contain a high-solids content of 60% or more, so the turbine must also be powerful enough to handle waterborne products. Several thin wet coats are preferable to one or two thick coats.

5. Can I spray household trim with latex (house paint)?

Yes, HVLP is ideal for this application – but you must follow a few general rules in order to achieve a good finish. If you intend on spraying latex emulsion paint (house paint) most of the time, please consider purchasing the more powerful 4-stage turbine systems. To spray latex paints successfully, some rules must be adhered to. The latex should be ‘finish-quality’ (the best grade). For best results, a latex additive should be used. Additives or extenders are not for thinning – it is a product that prevents the paint from drying too quickly – in other words, it is a ‘slowing agent’ – it slows the drying process allowing the paint to level more smoothly. You still must thin with water. Thin the latex with water – upwards of 20% should be enough. The 1.5mm – 1.8mm is preferred for adequate coverage on items like household trim, louver doors, fireplace mantles, cabinets, etc. When spraying latex, be sure to turn the fluid control to limit the paint to a finer spray. This will increase the ratio of air to paint and result in better atomization and a beautiful finish. (Factually speaking, it doesn’t increase the ratio of air to paint but does the opposite – it allows the air atomizing power to work on less paint, thereby improving the quality of atomization). Spray the paint on ‘wet like a lake’. In other words, it must be completely wet in order to flow out nicely and look smooth. If you are only seeing droplets on the surface, open up the Fluid Knob for more products. HVLP is designed for fine-finishing, and this includes furniture, pianos, cabinets, automobiles, machinery – anywhere a ‘Class A’ coating is to be applied. If you already own airless equipment, you’ll find that an HVLP system will complement it perfectly. Although there is some overlap, every family of spray systems on the market has its special place.

6. What is the secret to spraying latex paints?

1) Use the air cap set 1.8mm.
2) Thin the paint upwards of  20% with water.
3) Use additives if necessary.
4) Add the 6ft whip hose to reduce air temperature through the gun.
5) Hold the gun no more than 8″ (20cm) away.
6) Apply a full, wet coat.

7. Can I spray nitrocellulose lacquer?

It’s the same answer as with any coating – yes… just so long as you thin it appropriately. Spraying of lacquer may be prohibited in your location. Please check with the local jurisdiction. Lacquer fumes are toxic and flammable (combustible), so adequate ventilation is absolutely necessary. Explosion-proof light switches, fixtures, and an extraction fan are a must. Lacquers were formulated to dry extremely fast. The very fact that the turbine motors become hot and produce heated air can be counter-productive with lacquers. If you spray as you would with regular slow-drying paints, you may find that you can only spray a dry coat or you get orange-peel. But as always, there are ways around problems like this.
1) Use the standard size air cap set.
2) Apply at least 2 coats of lacquer sanding sealer first, and sand flat. The sanding sealer sands nicely (unlike some lacquers) giving you a perfect base for the topcoats.
3) Thin the lacquer until it levels out on its own (unless this contravenes local rules).
4) Add a lacquer slowing agent to slow the drying process if dry time becomes a challenge.
5) Add another hose to the standard 25ft hose. This will result in the air passing through the air cap cooler. If you also want more flexibility and lighter weight, choose a whip hose #2049F
6) Get in close with the gun and apply a wet coat.
If all of the above instructions are followed, then a beautiful finish will result. This assumes that the spray gun is held no more than 8″ away from the surface being sprayed (closer is ok). We also assume is that the lacquer is thinned enough. In fact, if you have done all of the above and are still getting orange-peel, you will likely have to thin more. Always use lacquer sanding sealer and thinner/solvent from the same company to ensure compatibility

8. Can I use the 3M PPS System Cups with the Fuji?

Yes, if the correct adaptor is used.
The Fuji T70 spray guns use the #18 PPS™ adapter.
The Fuji T75G spray guns use the #2 PPS™ adapter.
For the Fuji G-XPC gravity spray gun use the #24 PPS™ adapter.
Please note that for other Fuji models, you will likely need a different adapter. To find out more information or to purchase these 3M PPS Accessories for your Fuji Spray guns please Click HERE or HERE

9. How do I use the Q5 Platinum Variable Speed Controller Dial™?

The Q5 PLATINUM turbine is equipped with a Variable Speed Controller™ to adjust the speed of the motor. To decrease air pressure, simply turn this dial counter-clockwise. To increase air pressure, turn the dial clockwise.
Click here for full instructions on how to use your Variable Speed Controller Dial™.

10. How can I reduce overspray?

Overspray can be reduced to an absolute minimum by doing the following:
a) Adjust the size/shape of the spray fan pattern to suit the object. This may mean moving the gun closer than the maximum 8″. Thin objects such as spindles or railings can be sprayed with the round pattern and the gun held up close. Overspray is caused by the particles that ‘miss’ the object.
b) Thin only as much as necessary and no more. Experiment with less thinning. However, always remember, the paint must be thin enough to level out on its own after being applied wet. Make a note of the thinning for next time.
c) Never hold the gun further than 8″ away from the surface. Closer is better.
d) Reduce the air pressure at the air control valve. Practice first on scrap material rather than your project. Once the point is reached where the finish starts to suffer, open the air control valve slightly for more air. The complete project can now be sprayed with the same setting for the air. Reducing the pressure is the best way to reduce bounce back and overspray to an absolute minimum. If the finish is not sufficiently thinned, then you will not be able to reduce the air. The paint must level on its own.
e) Learn to engage your trigger on and off accurately. Remember, as you come off an edge and continue to depress the Trigger, hundreds of particles are being sprayed into the air. Eventually, this will build up ‘mist’ in the room. The Fuji High-Efficiency Aircaps reduce overspray significantly (installed in all our spray guns).
f) Use some type of extraction fan and spray close to it. You may need an explosion-proof fan depending on which product you are spraying – please check with the local jurisdiction.